Like Robinson Crusoe


We leave Guerero Negro to go east. We will travel across the peninsula but this time, no mountains to climb. The road is flat to San Ignacio. We pass over a military checkpoint again. It is the 6th since we are in Mexico. When we arrive at the checkpoint the soldiers get together on our side of the road to see our convoy. Some are curious and ask us some questions, some other just look at us and tell us to go through. It’s very easy.
After many days in the desert, have a good shower at the new ”Casa del cyclista” is so delightful. Othon, Sugey and their son welcome some bicycle tourists just since 3 months. We meet here some people who just stop there temporarily like Carl (he left Buffalo to go south like us). We make our laundry, groceries and we could visit the city. San Ignacio is a palm oasis town. Seeing some palm trees and water in the middle of the desert is different for us. That town is charming, more than the other cities we have seen since we were in Mexico. With his central shady square and his mission, we could imagine being in Europe.

San Ignacio mission

A few days before we get San Ignacio, Kayla wants to stop the diaper. Yes, she asks us to go to the potty before she uses her diaper. During the breaks, after she uses the potty, we put her some panties. We just put a diaper when she stays in her trailer during our travel. However, since San Ignacio, Kayla didn’t have a diaper during the day. Our little girl begins to be self sufficient. We can realize the savings we make and also the space we gain in her trailer.
It’s now more than 1 month we stay in Baja California. We have five other months before we‘ll have to leave Mexico and still a long distance to ride. If we want to have time to see all this country, we must go faster. So we leave our friends Isabelle, Guillaume, Beatrice, Norah and Laurent after a few days rest to recover from a cold we had since several days. The following days will be very difficult because every one of us will be sick one after the others. So we didn’t go faster.
One day, we were talking with some French people traveling in an adapted car on the road of Americas when Carl arrive. We left that French couple, Lise and Laurent and took our lunch with Carl before going to Loreto with him.

Carl

Loreto is a big city and look more pleasant than Ensenada and especially cleaner. A lot of American people live here, so the campgrounds, food, hotels, and houses are more expensive. We see a lot of development site very expensive when we were looking for a campsite. We also can see some nice and big houses just on the beach.
Just before we reach Loreto, a car stop and tell us that there is a campsite for bike tourists. We stop there and we meet a lot of bike travelers. They are from every part of the world and some are there since 2 months. We meet there a Canadian couple traveling also by bike from South to North. They tell us about their trip. They talk to us about a small road to Agua Verde (a fishing village) where they find a boat to go 60 miles ahead to another small village because no more road between these 2 small towns. We are very interested by this because we can save a portion of the uninterested and very busy road. We are absolutely delighted about this idea and we are not alone. Carl decides to come with us.
So, we leave Loreto all together. After a night on the beach and a long hill the day after, we leave the only paved road of Baja to continue on a trail to the small town of Agua Verde.

It takes us 2 days to ride 18 miles on this trail. We find the coast after we go down the hill we climb the day before. The downhill is very steep and we have to take care. We were all the time on the breaks. But, after all, the view is great. When we arrive at Agua Verde, Kayla is happy to go out of her trailer. She is already with her bucket and shovel in her hands.

The Trail to Agua Verde

We already look for a boat, but we realize quickly that a fishing boat is too much money for our budget. It’s impossible to go back by the trail, the hill is too sloping. The only thing we can do is to ask to some yachtsmen who are anchored in the bay just in front of the beach if they can help us.

Our beach camp

We meet very quickly Eric and Pam, an American couple. They have a small sail boat and they are going south. They can take us but not before 2 weeks. It will be long to stay here on the beach in the middle of nowhere. The days after, we are still looking for somebody else who can leave sooner.
Eric and Pam lend us a small inflatable kayak. With that, we are able to go and see others sail boat and make some boat stop. We met a lot of nice people but no one of them are going South at this time of the year.

"Hitch boa ring"

We find nothing. But the days are going fast between make fire for cooking, make a nap, have a swim and talk to the yachtsmen. We are busy and the life is so good when we think of that… Kayla is happy; she spends the day on the beach to play in the sand and in the water.

Kayla and her new friend on the beach

After 5 days, Eric and Pam decide to leave a week earlier. It is good news. We have to be ready in 2 days. We spent an excellent week living like Robinson Crusoe on the beach we call now “our Beach”
It takes us many Zodiac trip to load our things on the boat. We weigh anchor very early for 2 days trip. No wind for the first day! So we have to use the motor. We also have the luck to see some dolphin very close. We stop the first night on a uninhabited beach where we camp. Eric and Pam took some fish and we buy some lobsters to the fishermen. We had a very good dinner. It was a big feast.
The second day, the South wind slow us down and we reach San Evaristo very late. We just have time to take everything out of the boat and we stay on the beach for the night. Despite the small space we had on the boat, Kayla was very quiet and looks like she love that kind of travelling. Stay 2 days on a boat was a very good experience especially with so nice people. Thanks Eric and Pam for this trip.

Eric and Pam's sail boat

It’s time now to take back our bikes. La Paz is 80 miles ahead. The trail leaving San Evaristo is a bad trail. We have to push our bikes almost all day. In the morning, Mary falls down trying to push the trailer. She hurts her knee and has trouble to move forward but she was able to finish the day. It’s late and we ride only 8 miles. At this rate, we could be lacked of water.

San Evaristo Trail

Luckily, as frequently occurs, some good Samaritans coming from nowhere, are there to help us. They offer to bring us to the next village. We are really tired and we accept with pleasure. That portion of the trail is worse than the other, we would really lack of water if we didn’t meet Maria Dolores and Ramiro, this Mexican couple who led us to the beginning of the paved road, and longer gave us something to eat and even some big amount of money for Kayla. Undoubtedly, the luck is still with us. The day after, we just have 25 miles to join La Paz on a nice paved road. Despite Mary’s knee, we are in La Paz in the afternoon.

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